Every vintage generates a literature of its own, and the literature of 2023 is among the most carefully worded in recent memory. This analysis, drawn from 3,116 interviews, 412 published statements and one extremely long email chain, reviews the sentiment surrounding the 2023 harvest across seven principal regions.
The language of the year
The word most commonly used to describe 2023 was “honest,” used by 58 per cent of respondents and defined by none. Growers favoured “balanced,” critics “promising” and the general public “fine,” in a ratio of 3:2:9. Taken together these terms describe a vintage of real merit, and suggest that nobody has yet decided how excited to be.
Regional impressions
In the Mosel, growers reported a harvest of good acidity and no particular opinions. In the Douro, sentiment was cautiously warm, with several producers describing the vintage as “ahead of itself.” In Burgundy, the year was widely considered “classical,” a term used by Burgundian growers to indicate both approval and a wish not to be pressed.
Rioja produced a vintage described, in the course of fourteen interviews, as “reliable,” “reliably reliable” and, on one occasion, “not unreliable.” The Division regards this as high praise.
What respondents meant
Cross-referencing these statements with private interviews, the Division has produced a translation table. “Honest” means that nothing went wrong. “Promising” means that something might. “Classical” means please do not ask. “Fine” means fine. Where these terms appeared in combination, the Division recorded the vintage as a Qualified Optimism, which is the Institution’s preferred classification for any year of which nobody wishes to be the first to say anything definite.
Outlook
The 2023 vintage is expected to age with dignity. The Division recommends that opinions on it be reviewed in 2031, by which time everyone will have agreed.